This week I was due to be touring in the Bernese Oberland with three Officer Cadets from the Royal Military Academy of Sandhurst.  Jon Petch who had organised the trip had planned an exciting week of peak bagging in the high Alps for his team.  Below, expedition leader Jon Petch approaches the Col du Passon.  Left Jon, Tom, and Harry strike a pose below Mont Forchon.

Unfortunately the weather saw fit to intervene.  During my BMG ski training it became clear that the large amount of new snow combined with a forecast that remained unsettled meant that 4000m peak bagging and glacier travel might not a viable option for the team.  It seemed that we would have to adopt a flexible approach in order to seize any weather windows which appeared.  It was a good thing that the team was fit and motivated.  Jon had ensured that the team were good skiers... or so I thought!  The first day of piste skiing revealed that Tom last skied in 1998 and had almost forgotten what a snowplough was.  As he recited 'Pizza-French Fries-Pizza-French Fries' to himself under his breath I embarked on guiding him through a days steep learning curve to get him up to a safe touring level.

It looked like a brief ridge of high pressure would allow us one good weather day for glacial touring before the weather closed in around us for the rest of the week.  I suggested doing the first part of the classic Haute Route. 

A route that I know well, and was sure that there would be a good track in place from other teams.  It would also allow us to have a night in a refuge to acclimatise if we could get into the Argentiere hut.  The team agreed on the plan.  Sadly we encountered a problem once we tried to book the Argentiere hut... it was completely full!  Too late to try to travel elsewhere, so I suggested that we simply start earlier and skin up from Argentiere in one big day.  The boys seemed game so we had a plan again.  Above left Mont Buet peeks out above the cloud inversion, and right Harry climbs the final slope up to the Col du tour inferior.  Below Tom negotiates the traverse to the Fenetre d'Arpette.

Tuesdays night was clear and cold as we drove up from Chamonix to the Grand Montets base station.  We set out at a nice steady pace.  Easily climbing the groomed home run, past the eerie luminosity of the neon sign at the mid-station and out towards the glacier as dawn broke over the valley.  I had a good feeling that we'd made the right decision as we climbed up out of the clouds to a beautifull cloud inversion.  Although the day was to prove long and somewhat tiring for the boys, it revealed the mountains in all their grandeur... and it was a satisfied and rightly pleased team who made it out safely  to Champex 13hrs after setting out from Argentiere that morning.  Tom had employed his hastily learnt downhill kickturn and sideslipping skills to good effect but his poritive attitude and fitness had carried him through.  The next day we returned to Chamonix to take stock and continue with a little more piste training for the team.  Fortunately this allowed us to make the most of a great late season powder day at the Grand Montets with some excellent visibility later in the afternoon.

With two days left to their week and a desire to do some more gentle touring despite ongoing unsettled weather I decided to take the team to the Grand Saint Bernard Monastary.  This is an area which affords some good options for easy escapable tours.  We drove through snowstorms towards the pass, only to arrive in blazing hot sunshine- what a mix of conditions!  The skin into the Monastary was hot work, but beautifull and allowed us plenty of time to explore the surroundings that afternoon.  For our final day the weather forecast looked like we had a window of calm in the morning prior to a front and possible Foehn setting in from midday. 

 After a good discussion we opted for an ascent of Mont Forchon and a return past the Monastary to the car at the roadhead.  In the end it proved to be the perfect tour to end the week on.  Although the snow conditions were very challenging for the guys with some tough crust to deal with in places, it was gentle enough to allow Tom to ski in straight lines for a large proportion of the journey.  A good thing too since he confessed to having pulled a muscle in his derriere.

  The guys now head home to the UK and have another two weeks to brace themselves before heading back to RMAS for their final term. 

I hope that on reflection they will take with them some great memories from their Exped and that next time they are out ski touring the weather looks on them just a little more kindly.  All things considered though I think we made the best of quite a challenging week, and they all came on leaps and bounds in their off piste skiing ability.  Thanks guys for our shared adventure and good luck for your final term at Sandhurst!

This last week I have joined my fellow trainee Guides for a week of ski touring training in the Haute Marienne.  After a fairly rapid turnaround from my Bivio adventures I was driving south with fellow BMG Trainees Matt Spencely and Rocio Siemens towards Bonneville Sur Arc.  The weather wasn't looking too stable for the week with a return to colder and more snowy conditions.  The prosepct of some unsettled weather didn't seem such a bad thing to me... I was quite looking forward to a training course conducted in challenging conditions.

The course was being conviened by Terry Ralphs and my Mentor through the scheme Steve Hartland was working on it.  It was great to get a chance to spend some time with Steve again.  I have long respected him and was very pleased when he agreed to Mentor me through the BMG scheme.  I deeply value his judgement and the chance to learn from him out on the hill was a great opportunity.

We met the rest of the course, Matt Stygall, Ben Bradford and Bruce Poll at the CAF hut in Bonneville sur Arc and were briefed on the plan for the week.  Essentially it looked like we would have two good weather days and then it would turn more unsettled.  Hence the idea for a mini-circular tour was hatched.  We skinned into the Evettes hut on the first day and looked at uphill skinning skills, track setting and improvement and transceiver skills.  The second day we took advantage of the weather window and traversed the Albaron, which gave us a chance to practise short roping with skis on our packs and technical lowers whilst continuing to develop our route selection in ascent and descent.  It was a rare opportunity to bounce ideas around with peers during leading a ski tour and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

After our ascent of the Albaron we dropped down to the Alverole hut for a couple of nights.  The middle of the week we had some stronger winds and less ideal weather so looked at poor weather skiing and crevasse rescue and improvised rescue.  For a fitting finale the last two days allowed us to traverse into Italy and the Gastaldi hut for some fine coffee and cheesy polenta before heading back past the Evettes in less than ideal visibility on the final day of the course.

Although I have been leading ski tours for the Military for six years now I found this course well structured and very enjoyable.  I relished the chance to question our two experienced guides on their thought processes, particularly given the less than perfect weather and therefore heightened risk.  The course has started to get me focused on what I need and want to do next winter in order to become as good a ski Guide as I can before the test next April.  It also gave me a chance to learn a little more about an area I've never skied in.

The weekend which followed the course most of us stayed on to spend two days with French Avalanche expert Alain Ducroz.  Fellow Aspirant Guide James Thacker also joined the group for the weekend.  I write this having just returned to Chamonix after this informative and stimulating couple of days.  My head is full of information that I need to sit back and reflect on.  His advise and knowledge was well delivered and very practical.  Quite simply the best avalanche course I've been on.  It has challenged some preconceptions and sparked a keener interest to make sure I understand as much as I can, even as I have to accept that this knowledge can only take me so far.  The management of risk in the mountains and the understanding that danger is never so very far away is always a sobering thought.  I know well that my responsibility as a professional Mountain Guide is to make sure that I am as informed as possible and therfore make the best decisions I can in the face of uncertainty for the sake of my clients. 

This last week I was instructing a group of students from Oxford University Officers’ Training Corps in ski touring.  We shared a lovely adventure in the Albula Alps just north of the Engadine valley.  Every year I run at least one ski touring expedition for six students from Oxford UOTC.  The aim is to introduce younger skiers to a whole new world of adventures away from the busy pistes. 

This years plan was to complete a traverse of the Albula alps from the Julierpass to Susch in the Unter-Engadine.

Elliot Woods-Stride, a returning student from last years’ trip to the Oztal Mountains had organised a great deal of the expedition.  It was a pleasure to see him again and to see him develop both as a ski tourer and as a trip leader.  He had selected five other Officer Cadets to join the team as novice tourers, Hattie Holliday, Ella Thurston, Chris Hancock, Charles Clack, and Oliver Greenburgh.

We started with a few days of training based in Savognin, an excellent little family orientated ski area a little further down the valley from the main ski-tourers base Bivio.  One day lift skiing was enough to blow off the cobwebs, find ski-legs and check that most of the essential equipment worked.

For our first day tour we chose Piz Turba.  At just above 3000m and accessed forgivingly by the long drag lifts above Bivio, it proved the perfect introductory tour.  Giving us plenty of time to enjoy the views and learn a little about the history of the area.  We met a group of local tourers who told us about the historical importance of the Septimer pass just to the south.  Although the ski out was beautiful it provided considerable interest and challenge in terms of the skiing.  Sun crust and refrozen tracks not being the most forgiving of off-piste learnning environments!  We hoped for better in the back country.

Our tour started at the Julierpass and took us up and over the Tschimer d’Agnel before descending to the highest mountain refuge of the tour the Chammana Jenatsch hut.  The welcome we received from Claudia and her team was superb and I can definitely recommend basing yourself from this well-appointed and managed hut. 

The first day of touring gave us excellent if warm weather.  We could see the cloud trapped on the Italian side of the Bernina and the Bregaglia spilling over towards us during the course of the day.

The weather forecast pointed to a deterioration during the next few days.  Our planned passage over to Bergun required a stable avalanche forecast and good visibility.  Nothing for it then but to alter the itinerary and cut short our stay at the Jenatsch hut, heading out to Bergun before the bad weather arrived from Italy in form of the Foehn.

The route from the Jenatsch hut towards the Piz Lawiner starts with the traverse of a relatively steep slope quite early in the morning.  The first part of this we skinned along on a good track, but I decided that the group should continue on foot for the second part since I could not see for sure whether any kick turns were required and whether the track remained good for the entire traverse.  Twenty minutes on foot and we were safely into the higher bowl and on our skis steadily climbing towards the Piz Lawiner.

We skirted the rocky summit, forgoing the final climb in order to enjoy the descent of the Val Mulix in good snow conditions.  It turned out to be one of the best descents of the tour.   Delivering some excellent powder skiing high up and bits and pieces of corn snow lower down.  Of course there was some challenging snow to ski as well, including some trees and a bridge to cross (sucessfully for the most part.) which made the day very satisfying.  I could see that the group were not just working as a team but that their personal skiing skills were developing very nicely too.  Below Charles Clack enjoys a rare fall.

From the beautifull Val Mulix we skied out to Nax and then walked the short distance up to the train station at Preada.  This is a little village cut off during the winter and accessible only by train.  A short couple of stops on the UNESCO World Heritage mountain railway to Filisur and we reached our hotel for the night, the gastronomique Schontal Hotel.  Very recommended. 

Our plan for the next day was to ski into Refuge Kesch.  Due to the ever imminent (but ever delayed) bad weather we had two options… the high route involving the Bergun ski lift and an ascent over Piz Darlux before dropping down to Chant and skinning back up to the hut, or the safer but far less fun option of a long walk up the road to Chant and skiing up as before.  Thankfully for everyone the expected bad weather seemed to be holding off and we were able to catch the long chairlift…. and second lift… and final button almost to the foresummit of Piz Darlux.  Twenty minutes of skinning and we were ready to drop into the wide bowl leading us westwards towards Chant.  The final slopes had already turned into soft sugar at the base and we were glad to be safely off them and paused for lunch at the snowbound chalet before skinning up to the Kesch hut.

Climbing through the trees in a hot sun towards Piz Kesch, although tiring added an extra dimension to the tour.  For the last few days we had been high in the alpine environment, but now we were sub-alpine and below the treeline.  The ski route follows a small ridge keeping you safely out of the firing line of any avalanche danger on the northern or southern aspects either side.

The Refuge Kesch is a relatively new building which has plenty of space and comfort in which to spend a couple of nights.  An ideal place for us to do some more training and to sit out a little bad weather.

In the end although a good twenty centimetres of fresh snow was put down the weather was never very bad.  The winds remained moderate, and although we had a day of restricted visibility it allowed us to see another facet of the mountain environment and learn some new and essential skills.  We practised some navigation and bad visibility skiing helping the group develop into better prepared ski tourers.  Elliot lead the group up the small Pischen Kesch in nil visibility until serious skin trouble meant that he had to tape his skins to his skis for the group to continue.  The weather cleared a little from the summit and we were able to enjoy some excellent powder turns on our return to the comfort of the hut.  In the afternoon we worked on avalanche transceiver rescue and had plenty of time to practise searching.

The following day proved to be one of the longer ones of the tour and also one of the highlightss.  There was a layer of high cloud that encroached later in the afternoon adding a wild atmosphere to our remote and lonely tour.  We planned to traverse the Scalettahorn before crossing the glacier below Piz Grialetsch and descending to the Grialetsch hut.  We left the Kesch hut with clear, cold skies and fresh snow for a lovely relaxing descent down the Val Tschuvel to Alp Funtauna.  From there we had a very gentle but stunning ascent to the Scaletta pass where our good weather and bad weather options split and we had to make a choice.  The mix of cloud didn't appear too threatening so I decided the traverse of the Scalettahorn was on and we started to climb. 

The ski touring route finds a relatively low angle way through some stunning sceanery and crosses over a short but steeper shoulder to drop onto the Vadret Vallorgia below the Scaletta horn true summit.  From that moment there is a fantastic high level traverse across the Vadret Vallorgia towards the Grialetsch pass... with the magestic Bernina range accompanying you all the way on the horizon... so little exffort for such maximum reward.

Throughly recommended.  After a brief pause at the col we enjoyed another great powder descent all the way to the remote Grialetsch hut which interestingly enough is smack bang in the middle of a Swiss military firing danger zone!  Thankfully no exercises were planned during this period... but definitely wise to check before you go as the whole area is closed during firing periods.

Our last hut was shared with one other group, four Scottish ski tourers on a similar itinerary.  They had taken a lower route to the hut but found similarly enjoyable conditions.  With my limited German it was hard to get a confidence inspiring weather forecast from the Guardian. 

 I came to the conclusion that he felt the weather for the next day would be 'adequate' to complete our tour... a final ascent of a peak Piz Sasura before we descended over 1500m to the road close to Susch in the Unter Engadine.  The weather for the final day again added to the atmosphere of the trip.  Little wind initally but very changeable visibility and a small but relativly benign glacier to traverse before the piste.  We skinned steadily and cautiously up towards the Piz Sasura, enjoying fleeting but magical clearings of the cloud before we were engulfed into the mists once again.  Our final summit was viewless but immensely satisfying fro the group as a whole... we all summitted and celebrated the final high point of a great tour.  Hopefully the start of many more ski touring adventures for these five young ski tourer.

The clouds engulfed us again for the descent encourgaing cautious skiing until we were clear of the glacier and below the cloud level.  The lack of sun meant that the snow stayed good for us all the way to our final couple of stream crossings and the end of the snow.  It also meant that a steep sided valley threatened by spring avalanches felt much less intimidating and could be enjoyed at a leisurely pace.  A final walk down through pine forrests bursting with Spring life with our skis on our backs and we were down at the road.  A short walk to the trains station and the last day of our traverse of the albula Alps had come to a close.

It is always with a certain element of sadness that a shared journey arrives at its destination and you know that soon you will be heading your seperate ways.  I felt very proud of these five fine young ski tourers.  Over the course of the week I had seen them develop from novices, cautious and unsure of every step into more confident off piste skiers, much more aware of the dangers and opportunities around them... and more able to look after themselves safely in the Mountain environment.  I feel confident that they will be back ski touring in the Future... planning new adventures and I'm sure those skills and confidence will continue to grow.  I throughly look forward to meeting them out there in a mountain hut in future and hearing all about their travels.  Good luck guys, thank you for a lovely week and see you all again soon!

I have just got back to Chamonix after eight days on the Haute Route in almost perfect weather.

It isn't often that the Alps offers up such cloudless and windless skies for such a long period of time, but Jamie MacIntosh, Rob Clarke and Nick Orr, all from PJHQ clearly had some good Karma on their side.  Our initial two days of Chamonix based training could have lead one to believe that we were in for a difficult passage.  (Left- the group prepares to ski down from the top of the Grand Montets, cold and clear!)

The brief passage of a fierce cold front on Sunday gave the whole team an excellent lesson never to underestimate the extremes of mountain weather.  After a half days piste skiing at Le Tour we headed over the back for some pre-tour off piste training and skills.  As the front began to pass over the Mont Blanc range the winds increased and grauple, hail and snow began to lash down.  (Right-Jamie MacIntosh fights the wind to get his skins on.)  A practise skin back up and into the main Le Tour bowl revealed certain areas that needed a bit of polishing before we embarked on the Haute Route.   By the time we reached the lower gondola we'd been able to practise our nil-visibility skiing... and Nick had begun to feel a little queezy in such disorientating conditions.

Our second training day saw an improvement in conditions through the day, but never quite reaching good visibility.  The snow, however, was very good.  Since I've been in Scotland most of this winter this was only my third day on Alpine skis... and my second powder day!  We skied the trees practising controlled tight turns and following a specified line... until the visibility improved enough to encourage a few descents of the Lavancher bowl... and some great skiing was had by all!  Tired legs and the need to cover a few more basic skills saw the group finish early with a trip to the purpose built ARVA test area.  A great addition to the Grand Montets ski area which allows skiers to develop their avalanche searching skills. 

That night the team returned to Les Randonneurs Gite to make final purchases of food and equipment and pack bags for the start of our Haute route adventure.  The forecast could not have been better, with mild, settled and sunny weather predicted for the week ahead!  Definitely time to double check I've packed my factor 50+.

Although the Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt is the ski tour that I have done the most often, I think it is such a wonderfull and stunning journey through some of the finest mountains in the Alps that I can't imagine ever getting tired of it.  Every time that I do it the conditions are different and the mountains reveal another dimension... and of course every group is different too.  (Above left Jamie and Rob approach the Col du Tour inferior on day two).  We chose to break the journey into short days.  The first day involving only a descent from the Grand Montets cable car and a short skin into the Argentiere hut.  I felt that this would allow more time for the group to acclimatise before the bigger day over to the Trient hut.  It also gave us time to practise crevasse rescue skills on the way into the hut and of course increased flexibility in case of bad weather.  (Left- Jamie decending Rosablanche in perfect powder.)

(Below- Rob with the Grand Combin in the distance.)

Because such a trip has to be planned months in advance you can never be sure quite what weather you'll get.  By having shorter days if you do get some stopper weather then you are more able to combine two days into one to make up one that you have had to 'sit out'.  Every now and then when you get perfect weather it can make for a more leisurely journey too.

The last evening in Zermatt, although tired we reflected on the past week.... favourite huts, most breathtaking view... most challenging descent... most enjoyable descent... most spectacular wipeout...!  All in all I think it is one of the most straightforward traverses that I have made. Also one of the most fun.

The Mur de Serpentine was in excellent condition, the slopes above the lac de Dix had almost no avalanche debree to negotiate, all the huts we stayed in bar one were almost empty... and for the most part we had the route practically to ourselves.  (Right- The team on the summit of the Pigne D'Arolla)  We really were very lucky indeed.  The mountains revealing themselves at their very best. 

With two fantastic powder descents, the first in the Val D'Arpette and the second from the summit of the Rosablanche to the Prafleuri hut, and some enjoyable but chopped up snow from the Tete de Valpelline on the final day.  Although you never undertake the Haute Route simply for the ski descents... it has to be said that we got good snow where we most wanted it.

(Left- Rob skiing down from the Tete de Valpeline with the Matterhorn in the background.)

In reflection on the last week I have to confess to feeling very lucky to have shared the journey this time with three really lovely gentlemen.  They have not only been a strong and reliable team of skiers, (only infrequently making me hold my breath...)  but the trip has been great fun and very memorable.  Combine this with the fact that I have finally learned how to play Bridge- thank you Nick! 

As I write this the guys are skiing the pistes in Zermatt whilst I've returned to Chamonix to turn around my kit and prepare for my next trip with Oxford UOTC to the Julier Alps in Switzerland, again ski touring. (Below- the team from Left to right, Tania Noakes, Nick Orr, Jamie MacIntosh and Rob Clarke- Finishing in Zermatt).

It is with a certain element of sadness that I will say goodbye to a fine team tomorrow on their final day in Chamonix.  We plan to enjoy the valley blanche before they have to return to the UK and head back to work.  I'm sure that memories of our shared adventure will remain with all of us for a long time.  I hope to see them all out in the Alps again at some stage in the future.  Thank you Gentlemen, and see you again soon. :) 

This last week I have been in Scotland for my long awaited BMG Scottish winter test.  The prolongued thaw had caused a brooding feeling inside me that we might end up being one of the unlucky years where the winter test has to be cancelled due to lack of winter conditions.  In the end I should not have doubted and just held the faith.  The collective experience of the six BMG Mounatin Guides working on the winter test this year was formidable and if it was possible to run the test then they would ensure that it could happen. 

The thaw had indeed done considerable damage, but all the  weather forecasts agreed that winter would return from Saturday for most of the following week.  It was almost as if all the candidates hopes had been answered. 

For the first four days I was partnered with fellow BMG Trainee Matt Spenceley and looking back I feel quite proud of how well we worked together as a team for that first part of the test.  The test begins with a two day expedition to test our general mountaineering skills, night navigation and snow holing prowess.   With several days of hard freeze preceeding that start of the test the neve of the gullies in the Brearieach area was some of the best I've seen in Scotland all winter.  The expedition actually turned out to be thoroughly enjoyable for both Matt and myself... and hopefully for our assessor Bruce Goodlad!

With the carefull planning of the assessment team, and a little bit of weather luck we were able to have five full days of winter assessment before the final Friday saw a pretty impressive melt-down and return to summer conditions.  Having now left Scotland, post-test and reflecting on a very intense and demanding week both physically and mentally, it feels almost unreal to be out on the other side of this daunting hurdle.  I am very pleased to have passed and to move onto the Alpine Aprenticeship this summer- it's something I've looked forward to for years.  But my feelings are quietened somewhat by the fact that several very good friends will not be joining me this year.  Despite the mixed results from the group I have every faith that they will pass next year and will join us out in the Alps in due course.

When you are being tested in a process like this it's difficult to be anything other than very focused on what is directly in front of you... and take one day at a time.  Now with a positive result I can start to plan ahead again, knowing that I can work in the Alps this summer outside of my Military work, and that I can return to skiing next winter.  It's almost too much to express how satisfying that prospect is... how excited I am about the future!

It really feels like my journey to becoming a fully qualified Mountain Guide is well underway, and I can't wait to work alongside more experienced Guides this summer and learn from their years of experience.  I'm also really pleased to be heading back to Chamonix, the place that over the last six years I have made my home to share this success with a great group of friends out there.  Perhaps in a few weeks my excitement and happiness will have quietened down, but do you know what...  I sincerely hope that it never does!

So with an impromptu visit home precipitated by the continued mild conditions in Scotland I found myself with bonus time on my hands.  I had not expected to return to the Alps in time to catch any valley ice so decided that this week was too good an opportunity to miss.  Bearing in mind that I have my winter test fast approaching I didn't want to take my eye off the ball.  I felt it would be a good opportunity to take some of my friends climbing who don't have a great deal of experience but are very keen to get out for a good fun day.

Alice Gartland is one such lovely lady.  Immense fun to share time with, super positive about almost everything and keen to get more confident and competent in all things alpine.  After much thought and discussion we decided to head to Cogne.  Friends of mine had just returned and let me know that although the high temperatures had resulted in the collapse of most of the south facing ice, some lines were still in good condition.  We chose L'Acheronte, a 400m grade 3 tucked away in a little gully which protects it from the worst of the sun and keeps it in condition late into the season.

It was perfect for our frst day out together, and Alices first day multi-pitch ice climbing.  In fact I think that this is the longest route she's done... and she certainly more than met the challenge.  She professed to being more than a little nervous to start with, but once underway the climb is rather friendly in the way that it is broken down into a series of steps and doesn't reveal all of itself at once.  It is great for someone who might be intimidated by seeing a long ice route towering off into the distance.

We were not alone on the route.  Even with an early start we had one Spanish team ahead of us and two Spanish teams below... but they were very friendly and the day had a relaxed and convivial feel to it. 

There is one steep pitch followed by about 120m of snow, then a further five pitches of stepped climbing into the sunshine on the plateau above.  A perfect lunch spot in the sunshine for us to chat away and watch the Spanish teams finish up the climb behind us.  A short walk to the top of Patri and we found ourselves in the thick of things with a large number of guided groups summitting at the same time.  It would have been impractical for us to abseil through them so gave me a great opportunity to short rope Alice down the 'walkers' descent.   It's steep and exposed in places and the consequences of a slip are potentially serious.  Remarkably good practise for my forthcoming test bearing in mind a few days ago I thought I wouldn't be able to find anywhere to shortrope on snow in Scotland.

A great day, on a fine little climb shared with really lovely company.  Alice, I look forward to getting out in the mountains with you again in future... pretty cool route for your first ice climb!  Parking.... not so much. :)

I saw this piture today as I headed East to find dryer weather and I just couldn't resist.

The heavy rain which has been remarkably incessant on the West Coast these last two days must have done some severe damage to the snowpack.  I hope to get back up high over the next few days just to check out quite what is left.  Today I'm in the Cairngorms with the hope of getting out onto the plateau tonight for an enjoyable spell of nighttime wandering over the plateau... 

Its my guess snowsports might be cancelled for more than just today and tomorrow... but lets keep our fingers crossed for return to winter conditions soon.

This weekend  we are experiencing a fast and furious cold snap.  I'm working for Alan Kimber and West Coast Guides with a great group of winter mountaineers, Sarah, Ben, Andy and Robert.  Today we have had an excellent day making the most of a brief lull between westerly storms. 

We climbed Ledge route in pretty much Alpine conditions and then enjoyed a leisurely stroll over the summit of the Ben before tackling the Carn Mor Dearg arete in building and biting winds.  It has been a real pleasure to be out enjoying the mountain views again, and with crisp cold snow underfoot... such a shame that the forecast suggest this just isn't going to last. 

The guys have been excellent company today, and it was with smiles all round but tired legs that we returned to the bottom car park just as light drizzle began to descend.

Tomorrow the forecast mentions 'incessant rain' and a freezing level above the summits and we have wisely decided to make the best of the time learning all those essential skills that go towards making a safe, confident and well rounded mountaineer.  We plan to look at avalanche awareness, building belays and rope management skills and some improvised rescue.

So this last week I have been climbing with a friend of mine from Norway who has helped coach me in cross country skiing and a couple of friends of his Are and Bjorne. They had booked us into the Ben Nevis Spa and Leisure club for five nights with the result that I was quite looking forward to a taste of luxury and a few visits to the Sauna after climbing!

With a mixed forecast on the horizon, relatively mild but with very calm winds, I knew we'd get some climbing done... but also sure that hard mixed climbing probably wouldn't be possible. I was also keen to make the most of opportunities to shadow some of the very experienced Guides and MICs who work on Ben Nevis every year. Richard Bently from Mountain Motion had kindly offered to allow me to remote shadow on Friday and Mike Pescod of Abacus Mountaineering  graciously suggested the same for Monday.

This was my Norwegian friends first time Scottish winter climbing and it became evident that they had been pouring over their prepurchased Guidebooks for quite some time.  They arrived overflowing with enthusiasm to step onto the big ice lines immediately.

Hakon, a little more relaxed, understood that during this vital period building up to my Guides exam in March that my priority wasn't purely personal climbing. I'm trying to get out working and shadowing as much as possible.  Whilst at the same time brushing up on all the other aspects that I will be assessed on soon. In my mind the assessment is like doing my winter ML and then MIC back to back, albeit to a higher technical level.  So I know it will be both mentally and physically tiring.

On Friday Hakon and I clmbed together independently of Richard and his client but positioning myself so that I could watch Riuchard Bently working.  We climbed Two Step corner.  A route I have done before  a number of years ago with friend Leanne Callaghan, now part of the GB Ski Mountaineering team. It was a good choice for the day, varied, interesting and with only the first pitch a little soggy with the mild temperatures. Are and Bjorne, armed with a good brief and a map marched off into the mist aiming for Hadrians Wall direct. When we met up again that evening everyone was in good spirits and had enjoyed a full 'Ben' experience... albeit without the wind and spindrift!

The next day I needed to take a rest day, but Hakon and Are teamed up to take on one of the longest mid grade mountaineering experiences on the mountain... and also one of the best- NE Buttress. I was able to give them lots of information about current conditions having just come down from it on thursday. The main tricky sections are relatively snow and ice free making the climbing a little more obvious and therefore helpfull to a team inexperinced in full Scottish winter conditions. They returned that evening having thoroughly enjoyed the challenge and completed it in good time.

On sunday we all headed up into a much less misty Ciste planning on a day climbing slightly easier routes but covering lots of mileage.  Are and Bjorne followed us up Central Right Hand and then decided to take advantage of the brief clearing in the weather to lounge on the summit plateau in the sunshine and reflect on a good but tiring few days. Hakon seemed to have a little more steam in him so we checked out Central left and right before finishing up Wendigo, a great little mixed route at  IV 4.  As we walked down number 4 gully early in the afternoon it seemed such a shame to head out so early so we decided to make a swift ascent of Green Gully as well before heading home for tea and medals... and sauna (of course!)

On our final day together Are needed to catch up with some work so I suggested that Bjorne team up with another friend of mine Ben Tibbetts for a day of action on Craig Meagaidh. That's exactly what he did with ascents of The Wand, Diadem and then a steeper line to the left of Missed the Post.

Meanwhile Hakon and I met up with Guide Mike Pescod so that I could remotely shadow him and his client on Hadrians Wall Direct. It was a busy day on the Ben with a very International flavour... at least eight French were heading into Point Five gully. Mike is a very enthusiastic and knowledgable Guide who has worked on the West Coast for many years and I was very fortunate to get out with him. His client was a dutch climber called Rintje who I had worked for a couple of years ago taking him up the north Ridge of the Buchaille. In the end we climbed the first two pitches of Hadrians and then cut right into the upper pitches of Sickle in order to keep the climb interesting. It was a great combination, and ironically one that I'd done before by mistake with Roeland last year. Hadrians is one of the best ice lines at that grade on the mountain and I think Hakon really enjoyed it... that and meeting a Guidebook author of course!

With their time in Scotland at an end, yesterday Are and Bjorne headed home to Norway.  Hakon and I had to come up with a plan of how to make the best of conditions for the rest of our week together. I had booked us into the Rothiemurchus lodge at the foot of the Cairngorms so it seemed natural that we should start our journey east that day. With good reports from Ben and Bjorne about conditions on Meggie we decided to break our journey there and make the most of the slightly cooler morning before milder air returned with a vengence. 

So on Tuesday we made the long walk into Coire Ardair and Hakons second munro after the Ben.  We both lead The Wand, using a massive icicle at the top to rap and clean the route in turns and then finished up the easier Diadem in slightly soggy but reasonable conditions.  However on the decent the snow had turned to complete mush and it was pretty heavy going. Truth be told if colder conditions don't return soon it's hard to imagine the ice will last for much longer. Now we head East for a little rest and will endevour to make a plan for the week to come.  Which more me at least will include some long waited for rest and recouperation... perhaps for Hakon some rest and sampling the best single malts the Highlands have to offer...

For the last two days I have been working for Alan Kimber on the West Coast.  Steve and Scotty have been with me with the aspiration to do North east buttress on the Ben if weather an abilities allowed. 

We spent Wednesday on Buchaille Etive Mor doing a more mountaineering style route seeing whether we could cover ground and cover it quickly enough.  The snow was wet from a gradual thaw setting in but thre was plenty still around to make Curved Ridge a good itinerary for the day.  This 4 star classic fully deserves it's status as pride of Glencoe and it was with smiles all round, despite the rather gloomy but better than predicted weather as we summitted surrounded by swirling cloud.

A quick descent down Coire na Tulloch and we were back at the car just as the first light rain began to descend.  Perfect timing.  The front seemed to be coming in later than expected so we decided on a later start than normal for NE Buttress the following day.

Setting off just as the drizzle from the passing front died away, we spent the day in mostly dry conditions, even if the snow was very wet all the way to the summit plateau.  The NE Buttress is a great route with continued interest and some fairly challenging climbing in the Man trap and forty foot corner.  This time with the snow and ice not totally frozen it proved quite delicate in places too. 

The guys made great progress though, and with a recognition that we needed to pick up the pace to get off the mountain before dark we were able to celebrate on the cummit at 5pm.  Smiles all round, and rewarded with a quiet and clam summit of the Ben wreathed in layer cloud,  high cloud above and dense fog clinging to Fort William below....  but we were high and free!  We decided to decend by the red burn, easier on tired legs and a safer option with darkness fast approaching.   With some sore feet but plenty of grit and determination we were back safely at Alans for 8pm and tea and medals all round.  I had to make a very fast turn around and get over to meet my friend Hakon, Are, and Bjorne from Norway who I will be spending the next four days with.  It is their first time climbing in Scotland and there is plenty of excitement and pent up energy within the group.  Excellent news, and hopefully the milder conditions won't dampen this spirit down!