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This week I was due to be touring in the Bernese Oberland with three Officer Cadets from the Royal Military Academy of Sandhurst. Jon Petch who had organised the trip had planned an exciting week of peak bagging in the high Alps for his team. Below, expedition leader Jon Petch approaches the Col du Passon. Left Jon, Tom, and Harry strike a pose below Mont Forchon.
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Elliot Woods-Stride, a returning student from last years’ trip to the Oztal Mountains had organised a great deal of the expedition. It was a pleasure to see him again and to see him develop both as a ski tourer and as a trip leader. He had selected five other Officer Cadets to join the team as novice tourers, Hattie Holliday, Ella Thurston, Chris Hancock, Charles Clack, and Oliver Greenburgh.
For our first day tour we chose Piz Turba. At just above 3000m and accessed forgivingly by the long drag lifts above Bivio, it proved the perfect introductory tour. Giving us plenty of time to enjoy the views and learn a little about the history of the area. We met a group of local tourers who told us about the historical importance of the Septimer pass just to the south. Although the ski out was beautiful it provided considerable interest and challenge in terms of the skiing. Sun crust and refrozen tracks not being the most forgiving of off-piste learnning environments! We hoped for better in the back country.
The route from the Jenatsch hut towards the Piz Lawiner starts with the traverse of a relatively steep slope quite early in the morning. The first part of this we skinned along on a good track, but I decided that the group should continue on foot for the second part since I could not see for sure whether any kick turns were required and whether the track remained good for the entire traverse. Twenty minutes on foot and we were safely into the higher bowl and on our skis steadily climbing towards the Piz Lawiner.
In the end although a good twenty centimetres of fresh snow was put down the weather was never very bad. The winds remained moderate, and although we had a day of restricted visibility it allowed us to see another facet of the mountain environment and learn some new and essential skills. We practised some navigation and bad visibility skiing helping the group develop into better prepared ski tourers. Elliot lead the group up the small Pischen Kesch in nil visibility until serious skin trouble meant that he had to tape his skins to his skis for the group to continue. The weather cleared a little from the summit and we were able to enjoy some excellent powder turns on our return to the comfort of the hut. In the afternoon we worked on avalanche transceiver rescue and had plenty of time to practise searching.
Our last hut was shared with one other group, four Scottish ski tourers on a similar itinerary. They had taken a lower route to the hut but found similarly enjoyable conditions. With my limited German it was hard to get a confidence inspiring weather forecast from the Guardian.
The clouds engulfed us again for the descent encourgaing cautious skiing until we were clear of the glacier and below the cloud level. The lack of sun meant that the snow stayed good for us all the way to our final couple of stream crossings and the end of the snow. It also meant that a steep sided valley threatened by spring avalanches felt much less intimidating and could be enjoyed at a leisurely pace. A final walk down through pine forrests bursting with Spring life with our skis on our backs and we were down at the road. A short walk to the trains station and the last day of our traverse of the albula Alps had come to a close.
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It isn't often that the Alps offers up such cloudless and windless skies for such a long period of time, but Jamie MacIntosh, Rob Clarke and Nick Orr, all from PJHQ clearly had some good Karma on their side. Our initial two days of Chamonix based training could have lead one to believe that we were in for a difficult passage. (Left- the group prepares to ski down from the top of the Grand Montets, cold and clear!)
That night the team returned to Les Randonneurs Gite to make final purchases of food and equipment and pack bags for the start of our Haute route adventure. The forecast could not have been better, with mild, settled and sunny weather predicted for the week ahead! Definitely time to double check I've packed my factor 50+.
Because such a trip has to be planned months in advance you can never be sure quite what weather you'll get. By having shorter days if you do get some stopper weather then you are more able to combine two days into one to make up one that you have had to 'sit out'. Every now and then when you get perfect weather it can make for a more leisurely journey too.
(Left- Rob skiing down from the Tete de Valpeline with the Matterhorn in the background.) In reflection on the last week I have to confess to feeling very lucky to have shared the journey this time with three really lovely gentlemen. As I write this the guys are skiing the pistes in Zermatt whilst I've returned to Chamonix to turn around my kit and prepare for my next trip with Oxford UOTC to the Julier Alps in Switzerland, again ski touring. (Below- the team from Left to right, Tania Noakes, Nick Orr, Jamie MacIntosh and Rob Clarke- Finishing in Zermatt).
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This last week I have been in Scotland for my long awaited BMG Scottish winter test. The prolongued thaw had caused a brooding feeling inside me that we might end up being one of the unlucky years where the winter test has to be cancelled due to lack of winter conditions. In the end I should not have doubted and just held the faith. The collective experience of the six BMG Mounatin Guides working on the winter test this year was formidable and if it was possible to run the test then they would ensure that it could happen. The thaw had indeed done considerable damage, but all the weather forecasts agreed that winter would return from Saturday for most of the following week. It was almost as if all the candidates hopes had been answered. For the first four days I was partnered with fellow BMG Trainee Matt Spenceley and looking back I feel quite proud of how well we worked together as a team for that first part of the test. The test begins with a two day expedition to test our general mountaineering skills, night navigation and snow holing prowess. With several days of hard freeze preceeding that start of the test the neve of the gullies in the Brearieach area was some of the best I've seen in Scotland all winter. The expedition actually turned out to be thoroughly enjoyable for both Matt and myself... and hopefully for our assessor Bruce Goodlad! With the carefull planning of the assessment team, and a little bit of weather luck we were able to have five full days of winter assessment before the final Friday saw a pretty impressive melt-down and return to summer conditions. Having now left Scotland, post-test and reflecting on a very intense and demanding week both physically and mentally, it feels almost unreal to be out on the other side of this daunting hurdle. I am very pleased to have passed and to move onto the Alpine Aprenticeship this summer- it's something I've looked forward to for years. But my feelings are quietened somewhat by the fact that several very good friends will not be joining me this year. Despite the mixed results from the group I have every faith that they will pass next year and will join us out in the Alps in due course. When you are being tested in a process like this it's difficult to be anything other than very focused on what is directly in front of you... and take one day at a time. Now with a positive result I can start to plan ahead again, knowing that I can work in the Alps this summer outside of my Military work, and that I can return to skiing next winter. It's almost too much to express how satisfying that prospect is... how excited I am about the future! It really feels like my journey to becoming a fully qualified Mountain Guide is well underway, and I can't wait to work alongside more experienced Guides this summer and learn from their years of experience. I'm also really pleased to be heading back to Chamonix, the place that over the last six years I have made my home to share this success with a great group of friends out there. Perhaps in a few weeks my excitement and happiness will have quietened down, but do you know what... I sincerely hope that it never does!
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Alice Gartland is one such lovely lady. Immense fun to share time with, super positive about almost everything and keen to get more confident and competent in all things alpine. After much thought and discussion we decided to head to Cogne. Friends of mine had just returned and let me know that although the high temperatures had resulted in the collapse of most of the south facing ice, some lines were still in good condition. We chose L'Acheronte, a 400m grade 3 tucked away in a little gully which protects it from the worst of the sun and keeps it in condition late into the season.
We were not alone on the route. Even with an early start we had one Spanish team ahead of us and two Spanish teams below... but they were very friendly and the day had a relaxed and convivial feel to it.
A great day, on a fine little climb shared with really lovely company. Alice, I look forward to getting out in the mountains with you again in future... pretty cool route for your first ice climb! |
The heavy rain which has been remarkably incessant on the West Coast these last two days must have done some severe damage to the snowpack. I hope to get back up high over the next few days just to check out quite what is left. Today I'm in the Cairngorms with the hope of getting out onto the plateau tonight for an enjoyable spell of nighttime wandering over the plateau... Its my guess snowsports might be cancelled for more than just today and tomorrow... but lets keep our fingers crossed for return to winter conditions soon. |
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Hakon, a little more relaxed, understood that during this vital period building up to my Guides exam in March that my priority wasn't purely personal climbing. I'm trying to get out working and shadowing as much as possible. Whilst at the same time brushing up on all the other aspects that I will be assessed on soon. In my mind the assessment is like doing my winter ML and then MIC back to back, albeit to a higher technical level. So I know it will be both mentally and physically tiring. On Friday Hakon and I clmbed together independently of Richard and his client but positioning myself so that I could watch Riuchard Bently working. We climbed Two Step corner. A route I have done before a number of years ago with friend Leanne Callaghan, now part of the GB Ski Mountaineering team. It was a good choice for the day, varied, interesting and with only the first pitch a little soggy with the mild temperatures. Are and Bjorne, armed with a good brief and a map marched off into the mist aiming for Hadrians Wall direct. When we met up again that evening everyone was in good spirits and had enjoyed a full 'Ben' experience... albeit without the wind and spindrift!
On sunday we all headed up into a much less misty Ciste planning on a day climbing slightly easier routes but covering lots of mileage. Are and Bjorne followed us up Central Right Hand and then decided to take advantage of the brief clearing in the weather to lounge on the summit plateau in the sunshine and reflect on a good but tiring few days. Hakon seemed to have a little more steam in him so we checked out Central left and right before finishing up Wendigo, a great little mixed route at IV 4. As we walked down number 4 gully early in the afternoon it seemed such a shame to head out so early so we decided to make a swift ascent of Green Gully as well before heading home for tea and medals... and sauna (of course!)
So on Tuesday we made the long walk into Coire Ardair and Hakons second munro after the Ben. We both lead The Wand, using a massive icicle at the top to rap and clean the route in turns and then finished up the easier Diadem in slightly soggy but reasonable conditions. However on the decent the snow had turned to complete mush and it was pretty heavy going. Truth be told if colder conditions don't return soon it's hard to imagine the ice will last for much longer. Now we head East for a little rest and will endevour to make a plan for the week to come. Which more me at least will include some long waited for rest and recouperation... perhaps for Hakon some rest and sampling the best single malts the Highlands have to offer... |
We spent Wednesday on Buchaille Etive Mor doing a more mountaineering style route seeing whether we could cover ground and cover it quickly enough. The snow was wet from a gradual thaw setting in but thre was plenty still around to make Curved Ridge a good itinerary for the day. This 4 star classic fully deserves it's status as pride of Glencoe and it was with smiles all round, despite the rather gloomy but better than predicted weather as we summitted surrounded by swirling cloud.
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