My last few weeks in Chamonix before heading back for a month in the UK have again seen very mixed conditions. We’ve had brilliant sunshine, and torrential rain, the freezing level above 4000m and today down to below 2000m.

As a result we have been mostly sport climbing at lower altitudes, in the valley and up in the Aiguilles rouges. In one spell of great weather Richard Bently and I headed over to Arolla to climb the South West Ridge of the Douves Blanche… apparently a true classic in Victorian times. With a little coaxing the team was convinced to do the whole ridge as a real purist… making for over 2km of climbing, mostly on its pretty exposed crest.

We started at 0430 from the valley and made short work of the approach only to be slowed down by a vast field of boulders covered in very slippery lichen.

 Thankfully once we gained the ridge proper the lichen had mostly dried out or disappeared and our comical lurching settled into more graceful climbing.

We soloed the first part of the ridge and then moved together on the rope once it became more exposed. The rock is a little friable in places but certainly good by Valais standards. There is almost no sign of previous passage until you reach the obvious Comb about a third of the way along the ridge. This is where most parties get onto the ridge from a series of grassy ledges on the south side of the ridge.

Even though there is little evidence of other climbers the route-finding is still reasonably straightforward. Just put yourself into the mindset of Victorian climbers and try to stick to the crest wherever possible. It truly is a lovely little climb, with quite some exposure in places on both sides!

When the climbing becomes a little more challenging the rock is always good, and only at the grade IV pitch at the start of the Comb and on the crux at the grey tower did we find pitons in place. We took rock shoes and switched into then just before the comb. You could climb it in big boots but it is a little slabby in nature and passage is swifter in shoes.

Around 3300m we encountered our first snow but thankfully the grey tower was clear if a little wet and only after the last of the difficulties were we postholing in the deep wet snow.

The whole ridge took us about 51/2hrs with guidebook time at 7hrs.

We found the route first time and moved together for almost the entire route, with very few rest stops (sorry Richard!) At least this meant we had plenty of time for the descent and were back safe at the van just inside 12hrs for the whole day.

I’ve had my eye on this ridge for a while so it was great to find an opportunity to put the plan into action and someone keen to be a purist for a day! Thank you Richard!

After that and a return to Chamonix I’ve spent the time mostly sport

climbing, with a days trip into the Pouce for the Voie de Francais (seen here at the 8^th pitch up to the roof) and a few days being inspired by a friends awesome performance in the CCC by coming 9^th overall!  Well done Al... good luck in future races, an inspiring performance!

It’s been a week of mixed weather in the Alps, with plenty of snow down low enough to take a good number of routes out of conditions. So with a good friend visiting for six days it wasn’t initially apparent that we would get anything done, let alone the list of big routes we’d been dreaming of.

The first very rainy day saw us join the crowds in the Les Houches climbing wall. Making for a very sociable but not very alpine weekend. With 24cm of fresh snow on the balcony of the Promontoire hut it looked like most routes on the ‘hit list’ would require a good few days of fine weather to even approach reasonable conditions.

 Tamsin and I were both in a quandary over what to do. With the weather improving in the south first we knew we might end up having to drive to make the best of it. When another friend suggested heading over to south west Switzerland to climb a peak at modest altitude we didn’t need much convincing. The peak, pictured here is the Pic de Prevat and hosts a number of fine rock ridges of middle to lower grades. A short summer cablecar from the steep sided valley and less than an hours walk gets you to the refuge Leit which is only half an hours walk from the start of the routes.

The route we chose, (5c max) can be broken into shorter pitches but works well in six long rope lengths. The route is entirely bolted so you can move fast and light, so we found ourselves back at the hut well before midday.   After pasta lunch back in the valley and a search through the guidebook for other recommended routes in the area we came upon an intriguing proposition.

About 30minutes away was a dam with the longest artificial climbing route in the world directly up its’ front face. 165m of climbing at a maximum of 6a+, five long pitches with a reputation for intimidation and exposure.

A quick discussion amongst the group and unanimously we agreed that since we were in the area we shouldn’t miss it.

The route is situated at the Dam above Luzzone. You can drive all the way to the top of the Dam and get a real ‘feel’ for the exposure before you commit to climb it.  

Once you decide to climb you must sign a disclaimer provided by the restaurant at the top of the dam and pay an access fee of 20CHF… but it is well worth it! I don’t think that I have ever done anything like it before. The exposure is similar in scale to being on a big wall, and there is no traversing off onto easier routes and no ledges to ease the tension part way!

The climbing is not hard, and we all agreed that the 6a+ grade is probably given because the exposure could really get to you if you don’t keep on top of things in your head!

The route is well bolted (14 draws) and rigged for abseil descent should you need to escape for any reason. It should be on the ‘must do’ list of any climber visiting the area, just for its novelty factor alone!

The higher you climb the steeper the dam becomes. The information says that it is overhanging at the top but we all agreed that this may just be an optical illusion… but it sure is plumb vertical for the last two pitches!    

When we reached the final pitches i could see birds perched on the climbing holds! As I climbed they would take off and swoop around me, above, below… one even landed a present on Tamsins chalk bag. (It’s supposed to be lucky isn’t it?)  

The final moves over the railings to the dam are exposed but easy and you are almost guaranteed an impressed audience. 

  Here is Tamsin making the final moves up the 6a+ pitch to the top of the Dam.  To the left are the 'boys', Stu and Rich on the same pitch.  This gives an idea of the length of each pitch which otherwise is quite misleading.

Below Richard digs deep and completes the final pitch too.  What an awesome day... thanks guys... and thank you again Tamsin for great company and some lovely memories this week!

The last ten days I’ve been working on an Alpine Foundation course for the British Services. A chance to introduce five novices to the beauty and challenge that is alpine mountaineering.

With a couple of unsettled days forecast before an improvement in the weather we decided to head deep into Switzerland, and the eastern edge of the Bernese Oberland. We used the remarkably easy access of the Rhone glacier, just down from the Furka pass.

We spent a day training movement skills on ice and glacier travel before heading up to a warm reception at the Albert Heim hut. Here is the group below the Tiefenstock on our second training day.

The following day brought weather that obscured all views and brought snow down to the summit of the Furka pass. We’d planned a walk in to the Bachlitalhutte which would be the start of a circular journey through the eastern edge of the Bernese Oberland. With a cold and blustery walk in we were all very glad to reach the comfort of the hut for a late lunch and discussion of the plan for the next few days.

With snow down so low it was clear that our planned objective of a PD rocky ridge on the Grosse Diamantstock would not be realistic for our group. The traverse over the Obri Bachli Licken alone would prove enough of an adventure. The weather was forecast to slowly improve the next day, and indeed it did improve… remarkably slowly and only after we were well on our descent to the gaulihutte.

Here the group descends from the col in poor visibility, negotiating a rather large Bergschrund in order to gain the glacier below.

By the time we dropped down to the Gaulihutte where we planned to stay for two nights the sun had chased away any wintry feelings.

I can’t speak highly enough of the Gaulihutte. Isolated at the head of the Urbachtal valley it is perched above the Gauli glacier with commanding views of the Rosenhorn, Wetterhorn and other minor peaks which separate it from the Lauteraar glacier. The guardian, Susanne is a very welcoming host and the food and atmosphere are well worth the long walk in.

With a mixed level of fitness in the group we settled on the Ranfenhorn (F) as our objective for the next day.

After leaving the hut we quickly reached the snow that had fallen on the previous two days.  But with clear skies and a return of the summer heat and on our descent most of the new snow had disappeared. Our two groups were alone in the mountains with this fine summit to ourselves. Proving that even in the busiest week of the summer it is still possible to find solitude in the Alps.

Circumstances dictated that we split our group for the following few days. I would take the stronger team over the Hiendertellijoch and down to the Lauteraarhut whilst my colleague Ross Kane would take the more fatigued party out through the Urbachtal and continue training based at the Grimsel pass.

We started early for the Hiendertellijoch with the threat of bad weather, dark clouds and a deep red morning sky pressing our pace. The glacier below the col is fairly crevassed and we needed to pick our route carefully. Once at the col clear markings and fixed gear allowed us a quick passage through to the Lauteraar valley. With one night booked at the Lauteraar hut and a plan to complete our tour with an ascent of the Hublehorn the next day almost everyone in the group took advantage of our early arrival and went for an afternoon snooze.

The Hublehorn is a fine beginner’s peak. It starts steeply from the hut with a little scrambling terrain on golden granite following cairns and waymarkings until it branches west following red markings below the imposing face of the Rothoren. The route then ascends more gradually over boulders until reaching the snowfields of the old Trift glacier (fast disappearing). You head for the col to the East of the summit which is equipped with ladders almost to the glacier. The glacier has retreated so much that we had to use a 5m rope to pull up to the first rung of the ladder but the hut guardian informed me that in a few weeks time a new section of ladder is due to be installed. From the col a short 10minute stroll along the easy glaciated ridge brings you to the summit and fantastic views of the Finsteraarhorn NE Face, Schrekhorn, Lauteraarhorn and the Oberaarhorn.

Our original intention had been to traverse the next day to the Oberaarjochhut for an look at the easy peaks found there but we decided instead to head out that night to the Grimslepass and rejoin the other half of our group.

The Lauteraar valley is an awe inspiring place.  It is almost Himalayan in scale.  So it came as no surprise to be met by prayer flags as we approached the Grimsel lake and the famous granite climbing mecca... Eldorado. 

After a three hour walk out from the hut we booked into a Hotel at the Grimselpass and shared our stories with the rest of the group.  A final day of rock-based training at the pass and the Alpine Foundation Course was all too soon at an end.  Once again it has been a pleasure to share the first alpine steps of an enjoyable and sociable group.  I now return to Chamonix and a couple of weeks of my own climbing.

I look forward to seeing all of you again on next years JSAM and helping you to take your  mountain adventures one step further!  Until then... happy climbing!

We are now well into the summer alpine season, and I have a weekend away from work to reflect on a busy few weeks.  I have been over in Switzerland working on Military alpine courses, and on monday I head back there for another ten days.

Before I left a friend who was passing through Chamonix found the time to head up  for a half day on the Couzy route on the Aiguille de l'M.  Here is Megan powering through the crux roof pitch.  After leaving Chamonix she headed north to the Mitellegi ridge on the Eiger and smiles all round.

Meanwhile I packed my bags and headed to Saas Grund and the first course I was to run for the military, an Alpine Mountain Leader Training and Assessment course.  Here we practise crevasse rescue on the way into the Bordier hut. 

After several days of training in leading groups in the alpine environment we moved onto their assessment phase.  I had two new students to assess, and here is John leading us up and over a traverse of the Weissmeis.

A week of great weather and good company was brought to a close with a final day of very poor weather and some camp-bound training.

The following week saw me working on an Alpine Mountaineering Foundation course, basically introducing two novices to the alpine environment.  Here are my two students on a mixed weather day descending from the East summit of the Pointes de Mourtri from the Moiry hut.  The Moiry hut is a great base for easy alpinism, acclimatisation and training. 

From there we moved on to the Sidelenhutte above the Furka pass for a snowy ascent of the Galenstock by the classic SE spur.  Fantastic, almost Scottish conditions on the ridge made for an exciting time.  So much snow had fallen that we were unable to do the last meters to the summit due to avalanche conditions, but even so the day had been immensely rewarding.

In the picture to the left Hannah completes the final abseils down the south pillar on the Galenstock, a safe and straightforward route to descend back down to the Siederland hut. 

To the right my two students climb the final section of the classic Haulaubgrat on the allalinhorn in beautiful and atmospheric conditions.

The following day was comprehensively forecast to be bad weather... and this time the forecasters weren't wrong.  We decided to make best use of the time with some low level training and head up on the first lift in the morning for the Haulaubgrat on the Allalinhorn for our final climb of the week.

All that remained was a leisurely descent past the many rope teams ascending the normal route from the far side.  All too soon we were at the metro station with the magic of the high alps lingering in our memories.  So far the work with the Military has been immensely rewarding, challenging and great fun.  I'm often working in isolation so the opportunity to work alongside other profession and committed mountaineering instructors and UIAGM guides is a real pleasure.  Particularly since many of them are close friends!

To all my students and fellow instructors.... Thank you for a great few weeks and see you again in the mountains soon I hope.

After a fairly mixed spring of sport cragging around Chamonix I’m now fully immersed into a busy summer of work. I’ve just finished ten days out in the Channel island teaching rock climbing to Oxford UOTC.

The granite sea cliff climbing is reminiscent of Cornwall and there are some memorable lines. My work consisted mostly of supervising single pitch introductory sessions but in the evenings I had the chance to help the assistant instructors push their experience a little further.

Here are some photos to give you a taste of what climbing in the channel islands can be like… sun kissed and on the edge of the ocean…

Left is Mathew Moore Leading one of his first ‘Severes’ Gin and Tonic’ a three star classic with some powerful moves on big holds.

Jersey has one climb that made its way into ‘Classic Rock’, the four pitch VS 4b Prinze Nez which traverses on positive hold above overhangs and crashing surf.

Here is Matt Moore making short work of the thrid pitch…  with Chris Boote out of sight behind,  completing one of his best leads to date.

On our final evening Matt, Chris and I headed for another of the islands true classics… Perihelion at Groz Nez.

  At HVS 5a is immensely achievable and cuts a striking line on this imposing cliff.

We all agreed it deserves its three star status and felt it was a fitting finale to a great week of sun soaked rock! I hope you find these pictures as inspiring as we found the climb!

   Thanks go to Kate Wray for some amazing photographs taken from the clifftop opposite the climb.  Great work Kate, Thanks!

This last week I’ve been in Norway working for the Telemark Ski company. With my background in cross country track and telemark skiing (I Telemarked for 6 years before changing back to Alpine!) my heart always warms at the thought of touring in Norway.

I’ve made several other long distance tours in the past with University Student groups, one over the Hardangervida Plateau and further north traversing the Skarheiven. This tour, called ‘Pines to Peaks’ was due to start at Finbole just west of Dalseter and finish on the southern edge of the Jotenheim mountain range. The tour starts gradually in the pine forrest and very mellow rolling terrain and finishes near some of the most spectacular mountains in Norway well over 2000m.

Due to the tight connection with the finish of my own Haute Route trip I met the group early Monday morning. Only a few hours before leaving for the start of our point to point tour! Sadly one of the group never even made it this far, having twisted his ankle a few days earlier… David Campbell I’m sorry but you missed out on a great tour! So our group would consist of Joyce Campbell (Wax technician), Peter McLoud (Peter Peter Pancake Eater), Patrick Martens (Firestarter) and Myself (Pathfinder). Guys and disputes-Joyce came up with these nicknames… fair?

The DNT runs a very comprehensive and easy to use hut system comprising both staffed and unstaffed huts in the mountains of Norway. In staffed huts you can expect all the facilities of a basic hotel… certainly the envy of any Alpine hut! The unstaffed huts are more than their equivalent ‘winter rooms’ in the Alps. They have duvets and pillows so all you need is a sheet sleeping bag, plenty of wood for the wood burning stoves, a gas cooker, all crockery and pans you could possibly need together with a comprehensive supply of food. The huts run on an honesty system. You join the DNT as a member, pay a deposit for a key and then pay as and when you use the huts. With respect to the food, you note what you use when you stay and then either pay by cash or credit card by placing it into an envelope and into the hut safe before you leave. I love the DNT hut system and it makes touring out in the wilderness a much more accessible affair.

Every hut we visited on this tour apart from Fondsbu for the final two night we had the hut to ourselves. It was the week after Easter and since Easter is a very popular time for the Norwegians we wondered if perhaps they were all recovering at home this week?

Our route took us from Oskempen to a delightful private hut at Haugseter where the atmosphere and food were delightful… and then on to the Grand Hotel at Bygdin. The hotel was closed but had agreed through the DNT to host us for one night. They were preparing for a 40^th birthday party for friends later in the week so we were treated to live music as the rock band that was due to play did their dress rehearsal!

The day after our stop at Bygdin was forecast to be mild and wet… and in that respect it didn’t disappoint. We left the hut with very low visibility, very little grip from the wax and heavy wet snow… not the most inspiring of combinations. Skiing was…. Challenging. Falling over was…. Difficult to avoid. Even after the first Col was crested on legs tired from struggling to get the wax to hold we had to contend with skiing down in a white-out bubble. When halfway through the day the weather began to slowly improve and finally the clouds began to lift everyone was a little fatigued.

The mountain spirits had had their fun though and from that point on they clearly decided that we deserved a fine reward for all the hard work.

We arrive at Yksendalsbu our last self-service hut in splendid weather… brilliant sunshine and heart warming views. Here is Peter our dedicated Firestarter proudly displaying the fire he has just nursed to life in the wood stove.

The final two days of our tour proved to be the best touring conditions of the trip. With a return to colder temperatures it meant that not only was the snow surface frozen cold enough to support us without sinking in but also we could get a wax that gripped well! Everyone was much happier with this turn of event… and since we had blue skies and almost no wind we were also treated to some stunning views of the Jotenheim… or land of the Giants!

The day from Yksendalsbu and the descent to Fondsbu stands out as my favourite day but with two nights at the Staffed hut at Fondsbu our final day was to be an ascent of a peak. We chose Lange skavlen at 1878m this would mean about 800m of ascent, much more than previous days but the group felt ready for a challenge and the weather forecast could not have been better.

The final day was a fitting finale to a great tour… and here are some photos to paint a better picture than I can with words.

Joyce, Peter, and Patrick thank you very much for making this tour a great deal of fun and bearing with the difficult snow conditions so patiently! You all deserved those final few days… well done! I hope our paths cross again soon out in the mountains but until then I hope you can enjoy these reflections…

In late April my sister Karen, brother in law Alfio and friends, Alex, James and Becky joined me in Chamonix. We planned to undertake the well-known high level route on skis or ‘Haute Route’ from Chamonix to Zermatt.

During the first couple of day we covered a lot of very necessary touring skills whilst still enjoying excellent powder skiing at the Grand Montets. A return to colder conditions with plenty of fresh snow on the ground and more forecast for the coming week had raised doubts in my mind as to whether we would even be able to start the tour at all. The Sunday before we left the Chamonix valley still had an avalanche hazard warning of high… level 4! I spent the whole of Sunday evening pouring over weather sites on the internet. Trying to gauge if it was realistic to stick to our original itinerary and set off for the Trient hut on Monday. My obsession with the weather was much to Alex’s amusement.

It looked like we had a weather window on Monday though so even though there was considerable fresh snow, the Col du Passon seemed an acceptable option for getting to the Trient hut that night.

We took the first Grand Montet lift and started our week with a wonderful descent to the Argentiere glacier.

Fresh tracks in great powder all the way. I had been a little concerned about the approach to the Col du Passon but in the end it proved quite stable. My sister Karen and brother in law Alfio had not ski toured before although we have trekked together to Everest Base Camp and been up the Aiguille du tour in the past. The Col du Passon is normally finished on foot, and with a good boot track in place it is nowhere difficult. Anyone without a head for heights might find it somewhat expose... and we had a few in the group who did! Here is James approaching the top of the Couloir leading up to the Col du Passon.

We took a short break at the top before heading down a short way onto the Tour glacier.

The second Col that takes you over the border into Switzerland is a little more rocky. Here Karen and I work our way up the first rocky section. Alfio and Alex are seen approaching the Col from the snow arete below.

The ski across the Trient glacier to the Cabane de Trient afforded us some fantastic views and rewarded our determination to start out.

Even in the light of such a less than optimistic forecast. The first day is always hard, straight to high altitude, to a high hut and everyone in the group felt it a little bit.

We knew that the weather was forecast to deteriorate during the morning of the next day.

The ski down to Champex only takes a few hours at most so I felt confident that we would make it down before the weather closed in.  A relaxed start from the Trient and a blustery cold morning saw us down into Champex for about ten o’clock in the morning.

The col at the entrance to the Val D’Arpette is always a windy place and here Karen and I quickly get our crampons away ready for the ski down.

The powder at the top made for excellent skiing and here is James enjoying the snow in difficult visibility.

After a challenging ski down to Champex, first powder and then crud we were down in Champex for 1030 and coffee with Croissants.

We stopped in Verbier for lunch and then, due to the top lifts at Verbier being closed because of high winds, took the Funispace lift and traversed in above the pistes in nil visibility to just below the Mont Fort hut. The hut appeared when we were less than 50m away and with no skiers descending from the closed slopes above it seemed like another world than the Mont Fort of sunny days. Here is the group emerging from the snow at the Mont Fort hut.

The next couple of days were forecast to be a mixture of sunshine and showers. We planned to head for the Prafleuri hut next.

The morning dawned bright and relatively clear and we started with a steady climb up the pistes to the Col de la Chaux.

 On the other side of the Col we were treated to beautiful fresh powder ahead of us. A short traverse leads you to a frozen lake and another climb, this time shorter, to the Col du Momin and the Rosablanche glacier.

Due to changing visibility we decided not to take in the Rosablanche peak and instead made best use of the untracked snow on the descent to the hut. At about 5 and a half hours this made for a relatively short and immensely enjoyable day.

We left the Prafleuri hut the next morning, first, and in nil visibility. I had high hopes that the clouds would clear at some stage. Unfortunately this wasn’t to be and we spent the whole day shrouded in a hazy half light suggesting that the sun was never very far above us. The winds, however, remained light and the snow was fantastic… even above the Lac de Dix. There was no avalanche debree and it made for a fast passage through this usually troublesome section.

The second climb up to the hut we took very steadily. It seemed that the sun was trying to burst through the thin swirling cloud… and the warmth when it almost made it was tangible. Only after we were safely ensconced in the Dix hut did the sun finally make an appearance. The clouds rolled back to reveal the stunning views of the Pigne D’Arolla and our route for the next day…

The next day for our ascent of the Pigne the forecast was very good. We started early from the hut under clear skies, which stayed with us throughout the day. The ascent to the Mur du Serpentine went steadily and although this passage looks intimidating from afar it passed very smoothly in good conditions.

 In about 4 and a half hours we were on the summit of the Pigne with amazing views in all directions.

As always the heli skiers had reached the Pigne before us so the flank we were to descend already had tracks. Even so, everyone loved the descent and it made me reflect on last year when I’d skied roped up through sections in nil vis and high wind in the same place!

This is the my sixth time on a variant of the haute route and I have to say it’s difficult to tire of such a wonderful and very logical ski journey such as this.

The Vignettes hut is superbly positioned and only reveals itself once you are almost there! Perched as it is on an outcrop of rock above Arolla. We could see skiers heading off into the distance towards the Col de l’Eveque… our route for tomorrow, but weary legs and hungry stomachs made us happy to be stopping at the hut. That afternoon I took the opportunity to ski the glacier below the hut down towards Arolla again in light, cold, powder snow... then just a quick sprint back up to the hut to rejoin the group in time for tea.

The forecast for our final day wasn’t completely promising. For the 24 km to Zermatt we really needed a solidly good day weather wise. The foehn had started up… leading to very strong winds hence deepening the cold. It was forecast to get worse through the day and for us to lose visibility early afternoon and then to start snowing late afternoon. If we were super quick we could make it… but although we weren’t slow the pressure to up the pace would not have made for an enjoyable day. I decided with a heavy heart to finish our tour at Arolla. It was difficult to see other groups head off to Zermatt but I felt it was the best decision for us to head down that morning.

This has been a wonderful week with great friends and family. I write this just as I have to do a quick turn around and head to work in Norway so haven’t so much time to enthuse! We all agreed that it has been a brilliant journey through some very beautiful places with a whole variety of weather and some fantastic skiing.

At the start of the week I thought we might not make the first day… but somehow the forecast kept allowing us to make good progress and even started to treat us later in the week. A shame about the last day but I have encouraged everyone to think about coming back… maybe next year for a tour based around Arolla and the we can complete that final day into Zermatt!

Thanks guys for a great week and I hope to catch up with you all again soon, Love Tania X

The night I passed my MIC I drove up to Fort William to meet up with another friend Al Bignell, over from geneva for three final days climbing on The Ben.  I'd booked the CIC so we sorted gear, made a rough plan and tried to get a little sleep before a very early walk in the next day.

The forecast was excellent... the snow beginning to settled down and the winds stayed light so it made sense to get up high and cover some ground.  Having never done Tower Ridge before we both decided that to start with Vanishing Gully and then finish up Tower Ridge would make a splendid day.

Having secured our beds at the hut we had no choice but to wait in line for Vanishing with two parties ahead of us.  With one party out of the gully and onto the easier ground and another rapping after the second pitch we were able to fire quickly up the difficulties.  After the second pitch we moved together for most of the ridge.  The track was in and conditions excellent... and after passing the first party on the little tower we caught up with a large French group on the Eastern Traverse.

  Views of the Orion face were inspiring and we could see several other teams on Orion Direct and NE RIdge.   The descent down Coire Leis was also in fine condition which saw us back at the CIC well before five.  In plenty of time to hatch plans for the next day... 

We Initially thought we'd head for Minus two gully and the NE Ridge.  However after looking at the route from below we thought that it lacked ice on the traverse below the overhang... but perhaps that's normal condition for the route!  We eventually headed for Minus three gully at a more ameanable IV 5 but definitely a little more tricky without much ice on the exit from the cave on the second pitch!

  Here is Al making some fine moves to overcome the thin section.  Other than this one step the route is in great condition.  With the NE Ridge in much easier condition (A huge track all the way up it and all gear placements obvious!!) than when Tamsin, Graham and I tackled it earlier in February.

Again we moved together... until the mantrap when I was fortunate enough to witness the kind of sound belaying skills I like in my climbing partners...

Back at the hut even earlier this time we pined for our lost star by taking on minus three instead of minus two... oh well there's always next year!

For our final day on the Ben Dave Murphey made the long walk in from the valley to join us for an early start.  By now word was out on the Blogs that the Ben was in Super condition.  We almost chocked on our collective coffee and muffins to find another party at the hut with the same objective as us in mind.... Point Five Gully!

Thankfully Al is a highly trained endurance athlete.  He set the pace for our frantic recovery of pole position.  Those poor young boys didn't stand a chance... Niether did Dave or I either as we lumbered upwards in Als wake.

I do believe it is the first time that I've sweated on a walk in all season!

It's not the first time I've been on Point Five but this time was certainly in better time and style!  I got the first and third pitches with Dave on the second and Al taking the top.

Climbing as a three is very sociable and more than made up for the slight jiggery pockery required of the ropes at every belay.

Dave had brought the news that there was a small front coming in from the NorthWest later that afternoon so although we never felt hurried we climbed as efficiently as we could.  We were on the top in fine form about five hours later.  The views once again extending far off into the distance... the horizon almost painted on in fine pastel shades of blue. 

The sky was changing to the North and the clouds slowly lowering but we took our time for a lesuirely lunch on the summit. It was to be probably my longest summit stay of my two months up here in Scotland.  The French Guide staying in the hut had planned to take his clients on Astral Highway that day so we walked round to the top of Tower Ridge to get a look at them... they were easy to spot against the white face a pitch or so from the top.

During our decent we noticed that the summit of the Ben was now lost in high clouds and the wind was up for the first time in days... perhaps even with more fine weather forecast for the following week it really was time to go home for a rest!  Our three days on the Ben had reaped us 19 stars!

I came to Scotland expecting the worst... mild conditions, prolongued and heavy thaws...  strong winds which hardly ever let up... buckets of spindrift down my neck and days on end when every single item of clothing is soaked though...

and I got none of that.

For a committment of two months, what did I get?  I got over thirty fantastic routes in mostly excellent conditions.  I have so many days which rank as 'my best ever day in Scotland' that it's almost confusing me as to how to rank them!

I've had squeeky firm neve, rock solid turf, blue skies and hardly any hot aches!  Above that I've had some great companions with whom to share a magical time with and made some fine new friendships.

I've passed my MIC,gained a new insight into what is possible climbing wise for me and been accepted to start the induction onto the British Guides Scheme in September... and most importantly of all... I think I found a place in my heart for Scotland... it can be almost alpine at times! 

Now I head head south in the mother of all drives close on 24hours and one ferry crossing to the continent.... to Chamonix.... Home!

  After close on two months in Scotland the time had finally come to face the music... in terms of my MIC reassessment.  I'd been deferred on my two days teaching clients three years ago and now was the time to head to Plas-Y-Brenin for another round.

  With some challenging conditions in the mountains with respect to avalanches my choice of venue was more restricted than I would have liked. 

Fortuneately I was given a very agreeable gentleman, Richard to be my client for the two days.  With a good level of experience in the Alps but little in terms of  Scottish winter experience he just wanted to get a thorough grounding in all things Scottish. 

The first day we headed to Steall Fall to lay some foundations for a bigger day the next day.  With venues limited due to high avalanche danger it appeared that most other instructors had headed there too...  it was busier than the Northern Corries!

   Despite the crowds we managed to have a great day and Richard showed that he was ready for something a little more challenging... and mixed preferably!  We decided on Beinn Dorain and Second Coming. 

A little more spicey than its' III 4 would suggest it has a little of everything... great hooks, turf, ice... suspect rock... tricky protection and more importantly great views and no-one else on the crag!

I'm not sure I would recommend Second Coming as a climb to guide students up and I rather suspect I made my reassessment more challenging than it could have been... traverses awkward to protect... not all too obvious gear or belays and a large and suspect block that bars exit to the route on the top pitch.

  Despite this it was a lovely day in good company with Richard and Keith my second assessor.  Another blue sky day in Scotland...

As we walked from the crag my mind was calm but poised... had I done enough to pass?  Had I demonstrated that I had reached the standard to gain my MIC finally?

A little while later my debrief finally allowed me to sigh in relief.... I'd passed!  So my two main goals for the winter had finally been achieved.   In one of the most memorable Scottish winter seasons that I have ever had!  With only five days remaining before heading home to Chamonix how on earth was I going to celebrate...?

  Monday saw continued good weather and a somewhat more relaxed itinerary.  Reunited with Tamsin we decided to take on the fine combination of No 6 Gully on Aonoch Dubh West Face and then Deepcut Chimney of Stob Coire nam Beith. 

With such perfect weather we both felt that we would rather be moving than spending time belaying.. and this combination would give us almost 700m of climbing up to grade IV.  Both climbs are classics and in 'cold climbs'.  We moved together for most of the routes only pitching it in the steeper sections.

With less than two hours for No. 6 Gully and the summit of Stob Coire nam Beith in the sunshine for lunch it made for a fun and relaxing day.  The two best pitches fell to Tamsin... a solid ice pitch in No.6 gully and an unlikely corner wall much easier than first appearances on Deepcut.

Again fantastic views out across the sea to the lonely munro on Mull, to Skye and back East to the distant Cairngorms.

We could even see Schiehallion in the distance... here Tamsin kindly points it

out for you on the horizon.

As we ate our lunch we were horrified to note that the good weather has roused the notorious Great Blue Hykerhunta from hibernation. 

The crowds on Stob Coire nan Lochan seemed oblivious to the danger that they faced...  we think they escaped this time but she's hungry and she's definitely out there... so do be carefull!